Hiking in Svaneti
There are many hiking trails in Svaneti, connecting villages and remote valleys. Some of them even lead to Lower Svaneti and Racha regions. These trails have been used by the locals for centuries and millennia, and now tourists are exploring them in large numbers.
The most popular route, at least on internet forums, is the Mestia – Ushguli multi-day trek, but there is no single established route for travelers to follow. Some choose to trek through the village of Tsvirmi, while others go through Mulakhi. Even within these villages there are several routes to choose from, not all of which are equally great.
Trails
Most of the trails are single-lane gravel roads, with occasional abandoned Soviet-built roads no longer used by vehicles.
Structure
From 500m to 5200m, the area covers all types of terrains, from lush forests to open alpine meadows and massive glaciers.
Good to Know
The villages in Svaneti are conveniently located between 10-15 km from each other, making perfect hut-to-hut hiking routes.
Distance: 220km from Kutaisi (5 hours), 460km from Tbilisi (8 hours). There is an option to fly from both cities and arrive in Mestia, Svaneti in 40 minutes.
Best time for hiking: June to August is the high season for hiking in Svaneti, while September and October are also good options with slightly cooler days.
Mestia
Mestia, a small town in the middle of the mountains, is the capital of Svaneti. This cozy settlement is a perfect starting point for your hiking trip. Here you can find one-day and multi-day routes for all levels of fitness. If the weather is clear, you can take the ski lift to the nearby village of Hatsvali and hike all the way down to Mestia.
The town offers restaurants, cafes, ancient and modern museums for relaxing evenings. For unique cultural experiences, enjoy polyphonic singing events and cooking masterclasses in local families.
Natural sights near Mestia
Chalaadi Glacier
Shdugra Waterfall
Hastvali Forest and Resort
Koruldi Lakes
Outdoor enthusiasts won’t get enough of this place. Within a day’s hike, there are multiple options to experience natural wonders:
Waterfall? Check.
Glaciers? Check.
Alpine lakes? Check.
Cozy wooden sauna cabins in the middle of a pine forest? Double check.
Ushguli
Why is Ushguli famous? Is it worth visiting on your trekking vacation? It depends. This relatively large village is the last settlement in the valley of the Enguri River. It is the highest place where people live all year round, and travelers can enjoy the view of the highest mountain in Georgia (Shkhara, 5,203m). Accommodations and amenities here is less developed than in Mestia, but much more luxurious than other villages in the valley.
Due to the high altitude, hiking to/from Ushguli can be a challenge. There are several hiking tracks, but unfortunately none of them are great options. Ushguli – Kala route is too short and it follows the main road for some time, full of car dust. Ushguli – Chvelpi route, via Latpari pass, has beautiful ascent, but downhill follows gravel road and is waaay too long. Hiking over Zagaro Pass is also on gravel road. As for hiking to Shkhara glacier, it’s monotonous and it’s not fun to be passed by cars on the dusty road. Ushguli is still worth visiting for a day trip, or if you are following the route towards Lower Svaneti.
Other Villages
Mazeri
This tiny beautiful village is located at the footsteps of Mt Ushba, and has great panorama of Mt Laila. This place is a starting point of a hiking route towards Shdugra waterfall, gorgeous track through pine forest.
For longer route, take a hike all the way up to Ushba glacier, located on the top of the waterfall.
Mulakhi
Conveniently located between Mestia and Adishi, Mulakhi village can be used as an overnight stop for hut-to-hut trekking in Svaneti. It has a beautiful view of Mt. Tetnuldi, and has nice trails leading up to Tetnuldi ski resort.
Adishi
Relatively underdeveloped but cozy little village, Adishi is often visited by trekkers. From here the trail passes the massive glacier of Tetnuldi, climbs to 2700m and descends to the Enguri valley. The village has a few family guesthouses, which can be full during the summer.
Khalde
On the opposite valley of Adishi, Khalde village is yet another high altitude settlement. At the moment of writing, there is only 1 guesthouse with cold beer available after the long hike.
Trails
There are few marked trails in Svaneti, and even those that are marked can sometimes lead to dead ends due to rivers or landslides. Some of the trails have also been altered by kettles, creating different paths along the mountain that lead to nowhere. Lack of infrastructure is the price you pay for having a quiet wilderness. It’s not a bug, it’s a feature.
Most of the tracks are simple footpaths, usually wide enough for 2 people to walk side by side. Nearby villages these tracks are also wide enough for vehicles, which was mainly used during the Soviet era, but you may still see locals from time to time.